Tuesday, September 29, 2009

Roast Butternut Squash and Chipotle Soup


Fall is here and winter squash has appeared in the farm markets. Our favorite is a big rural stand that works on the honor system. You select, bag, and weigh your own produce, calculate your total using a pad and golf pencil, and then place your money in a rusty iron box. A sign asks you not to peel the corn before buying it (this is a very stupid thing to do, btw.). If you get a bad ear, take a free one next time.

Butternut squash and sweet potatoes both love chipotles, so here's an easy, tasty soup that goes terrific with cornbread.

Roast Butternut Squash and Chipotle Soup


1 large butternut squash, cored, peeled and diced
1 onion, diced
½ chipotle pepper and extra adobo sauce
Stock (chicken/vegetable)
Parsley for garnish
Olive oil

1. Heat oven to 400. Put butternut squash on a sheet pan and toss with enough olive oil to coat
2. Bake about 20 minutes, flipping occasionally. Do not burn. It's done when it's soft.
3. Fry onions in oil in a large saucepan over medium heat, stirring often for about two minutes or so.
4. Turn down the heat and add a pinch of sugar, continuing to stir until lightly carmelized.
5. Add the roast squash, chipotles and adobo, some salt, and cover with stock and water (about half and half. For a more delicate soup, you could just use water).
6. Cook about 20 minutes.
7. Puree and adjust seasoning (that means to add more salt if it needs it).
8. Serve garnished with parsley. If you're looking to make friends and impress people, you could puree your parsley with sour cream and water, and drizzle their initials on the soup. But a nice hunk of coarsely chopped parsley tastes good too.

Monday, September 14, 2009

Tortilla de Papas (leftover baked potatoes)


Our sister decided to have an extremely quiet wedding this weekend—and invited us to be witnesses. We were surprised when she also requested one of our simplest leftover dishes for the after-ceremony brunch: a humble tortilla de papas (potato frittata).

You can find many recipes for tortillas de papas; ours is based on a simple contrast: we love crispy potatoes but usually dislike browned eggs. Most recipes call for cooking the frittata halfway on the stovetop, and finishing it in the oven. If you do this, the frittata does have a nice puffy texture, but the bottom of the eggs is browned and rubbery, and you lose a lot of the delicate flavors.

Our version is a bit of a high wire act. We make the potatoes like homefries, separate the eggs from the pan like an omelet, and then flip them using a dinner plate. For the brunch, it happily worked and matched excellently with a Moet et Chandon Blanc de Blancs (what doesn't?).

Tortilla de Papas

4 eggs
1 leftover baked potato (you can also microwave one), cut in half and then sliced into 1/3 inch slices.
½ medium onion, sliced thin (optional)
Salt
Chives (or parsley)
Olive oil

1. Heat a good nonstick frying pan (10 inches or less). Add oil, then spread out the potatoes in a single layer.
2. Cook over high heat for several minutes. Try not to move the potatoes at all. That way, they'll brown nicely.
3. Once they are brown flip them over, and sprinkle the onions in. Lower the heat.
4. Allow the onions to wilt, by this point, the potatoes should also be a little brown on the other side.
5. Did we mention not to salt anything. It's very important not to salt for two reasons: salt will make the potatoes less crispy and it will turn the eggs gray.
6. Whip eggs with ¼ cup water until combined.
7. Pull the pan off the stove, toss the potatoes and onion and allow to cool slightly.
8. Add eggs. Reduce heat to low and return pan to burner.
9. Now, shake the pan nearly continually (this will help the eggs separate from the bottom). Meanwhile, scrape and lift the edge of the eggs from a pan with a spatula. Then tilt the pan, allowing liquid egg to swirl around the edge of the pan again, and repeat the scraping and lifting with the spatula.
10. When the eggs are mostly set, add salt. Then, when the eggs are sliding free from the bottom of the pan, you're ready to flip.
11. Take a dinner plate and place it over the frying pan like a cover. Hold it tight and flip the pan over so that the eggs fall on the plate.
12. Now, slide them back into the pan, wet side down.
13. Finish cooking for 2-3 minutes and remove. Garnish with herbs and serve with ketchup or barbecue sauce.

Tortilla de Papas with Sausage and Cheese.

To create this, simply add crumbled cooked sausage one minute after the onion. When the onions are nearly cooked, add grated cheddar or other semisoft cheese and allow it to melt around the potatoes before adding the egg.